The trains cars are narrow...narrow hallways with windows on one side and sliding doors to the sleeping cars on the other..The compartments are tiny - narrow bunk bed berths on each side divided by a narrow aisle (maybe 2 feet) between each. A table juts out from the wall underneath the window. The door has a frosted panel with an oriental design so when closed you don't feel completely like you are in a closet. Floors, doors and walls in a rich dark lacquered wood..
Waiting on each bed is a pair of slippers and a small woven bag with a bootle of water, wash cloth, comb and toothbrush/toothpaste.. Nice touch..
Oh, did I mention that the bathroom is down the hall.. Middle of the night pees are going to be interesting!!
Our roommate, a retired French civil engineer doing consulting work in Vietnam, is already in bed when we arrive at 9:00 pm..already weird. We have been assigned the upper and lower left side bunks.. No way I am taking the upper - could make the middle of the night pees dangerous!! There's fresh linen, a pillow and down duvet on the bunks but cozy is not what I would call it. We will be sleeping in our clothes tonight.
We sit on the lower bunk talking. Poor steven has to slouch so as not to hit the top of the upper bunk. There's not much to do when there's a strange mean sleeping 2 inches from you and no dining or sitting car on this train, so it's time to call it a night. Trekking begins as soon as we arrive tomorrow so sleeping is essential.not leaving that to chance, we both take a sleeping pill..steven climbs up to his bunk (a mere few inches from the ceiling) and we say goodnight..
I managed the middle of the night pee just fine - very nice big bathroom btw, with real toilet, sink, granite counter - and also slept quite well. Steven too. We are awaken at 6:00 with coffee and then off we go to begin the next adventure.
The train station is in LaoCai in north Vietnam, only a few kilometers from the Chinese border. Wow! A driver meets us to take us up the mountain to Sapa, about 30 km away.
This mountain village is a trekking town primarily - popular because of the spectacular lush scenery (terraced rice patties lining the sides of mountains and valleys) and the local indigenous tribes dressed in their colorful hand-dyed, hand-woven clothes.
At the museum of enthicity in Hanoi, we learned that there are over 75 different ethnic tribes in Vietnam - several of them live in this area and the appeal of the treks is visiting local villages. Local woman, dressed in native costume, are everywhere in the village, trying to sell you their handmade goods.. Their English is excellent.. They have stores, market stalls or just set up,on the sidewalk.. Any just carry their goods in baskets on their back and follow you around.. "hello, how are you," they ask with a smile. "what is your name? How old are you? Do you have children? Do you want to buy something?"
They follow you everywhere. Others show up.."I have no money now," I say. "I will buy later."
"ok," they reply always smiling. "I will wait for you." and then they make me pinky swear that I will buy from them. I like these 2 ladies.. They are the first we met and I will indeed buy from them - but later. Sure enough when we emerge from the hotel for dinner, they are waiting for us. Persistent.... but there is so much choice and that is how they are going to lock in a sale.
One of the downsides for sure is constantly being accosted to buy goods or the constant presence on the mountain sides of men on scooters who offer to drive you back to the village.. At least they were asking everyone and not just the older ones like us!!
Our guide is Moo, a beautiful 18 year old from the Mong tribe..we are hiking with 4 Aussie girls who stop at every shop and mountain side vendor to shop..
That's it for now. Off to day #2 I'd trekking. Today 12 km..
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