Being on a boat on Halong Bay reminded me of sailing in the BVI's. The boat was about 150 feet, all wood with polished teak decks and brass. The hull was white with gold dragons on the bow. It had twelve cabins with room for 24 guests. We had twenty people on board. Staff outnumbered guests. It had two masts and golden colored sails - for show only - not for sailing but it was a beautiful sight when they were unfurled. Inside it was all teak and mahogany. Beautiful condition. I could live on this boat no problem.
The smell of diesel fuel from the engines blows up and over the top deck as we start heading out into the bay. Close by and in the distance rock formations are rising out of a mist covered sea, the ones closer to the boat visible and the ones further away dream like. Shades of green, blue, purple and grey surround us.
Like the BVI's, there are many boats of all sizes and shapes on the water. Most are carrying tourists like us but there are also fishermen, floating villages and market boats bringing fresh food and supplies to the villagers who live on the bay. At night, at anchor, we can count upwards of twenty five boats like ours on the water.
Curiously, all the tourist vessels plying the waters of Halong Bay are white. Not long ago they were not all white. Recently, by order of the Minister of Tourism who, having gone on a Mediterranean cruise and seeing all the boats there were white, came back and ordered all the boat owners to paint their boats white at their own expense. Another reason given was that white boats were more visible, especially at night. The Minister was making sure she wouldn't have safety issues on her watch. Needless to say, boat owners were not happy having to repaint all their boats the same color. I'm sure the boats also lost some of their uniqueness.
The distance travelled from the port to our first stopping point is not far. We were probably doing 5 knots for an hour and a half. There small tender boats took us to Titop Island, named after a Russian diplomat by Uncle Ho, so we could climb the 400 steps to get a 360 degree view of the Bay. We shared the narrow winding staircase with fellow travelers from our boat as well as the twenty or so others on the water that day. Their itineraries are the same as ours. Hot and sweaty from the climb the swim in the bay was a welcome cool down. We returned to the boat and not long afterwards we were taken by tender to a floating fishing village.
At the village we were transferred to small bamboo boats 4 to a boat rowed by a young woman. She rowed us all around the floating village which is located in a small bay. The villagers live in make shift houses built on docks. Under each house is a fish pen where fish are farmed for sale to markets and restaurants in Hanoi. The houses are mostly built from wood but many sport tarpaulin roofs or walls. Large families live under a single roof. Only a few are lucky enough to have a generator for electricity. The tourist trade has been a godsend for them.
We return to the boat as the sun sets and happy hour 2 for 1 begins. Dinner is an extravaganza. We sleep like babies.
The next morning we awake early so we can join the Tai Chi Master at his morning class. Doing tai chi on the deck at sunrise is a take away from the trip I will not soon forget. I jump out of bed the next morning to do it again. What a graceful and peaceful way to start the day.
After tai chi we have a breakfast of pho ga, lemon water and yogurt avoiding the western foods and depart on a day boat which takes us to a secluded part of HB where we get a chance to explore areas of the bay on our own in a 2 person kayak. Scooting under mountains through arches carved by wind and water, finding secluded beaches where we swam all alone in the morning sun, paddling along cliff walls finding caves made for a pretty exhilarating morning. In the afternoon we kayaked to a famous cave called the Bat Cave because it's deep and dark and bats sleep there. You can hear them squeaking as you paddle through. Then it's back on the day boat to the mother ship for another happy hour, another dinner extravaganza and a blissful sleep.
Early the next day, right after Tai chi the tender takes us to the mother of all caves in HB known as Surprise Cave. It was discovered at the turn of the century by two Frenchmen who alors were surprised by by what they found. I guess the name stuck. French marketing hasn't changed. The cave however is spectacular. It goes and goes and goes and goes. To the credit of the Vietnamese they have illuminated it tastefully. It is the number one attraction on HB.
After Surprise Cave we head back to the mother ship, pack up, disembark and return to Hanoi where we will stay overnight and leave early the next day for the royal city Luang Prabang, Laos. Halong Bay lived up to its hype. It's a must see if you go. And as far as cruising goes - give me a small boat, a great location to sail in, lots of activities (at no extra cost BTW), great food, wine and lots of laughs with ship mates and I'm good.
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